Getting a rifle scope dialed in correctly is one of the most important skills any shooter or hunter can have — and one of the most commonly done wrong. A rifle that isn’t properly zeroed will cost you groups at the range and shots in the field, no matter how good your trigger pull is.
This guide walks you through the entire process, from mounting to a confirmed 100-yard zero. Whether you’re setting up a new rifle for deer season or correcting a scope that’s drifted, follow these steps and you’ll be printing tight groups in one range session.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Before you head to the range, gather the following:
- Your rifle and scope — mounted and torqued (see below if yours isn’t mounted yet)
- A stable bench rest or shooting bags — consistency is everything when sighting in
- A bore sighter or collimator (optional but highly recommended — saves ammo)
- Quality targets — a 1” or 2” grid target makes adjustments easy to measure
- 20–40 rounds of your hunting or defensive load — sight in with the ammo you’ll actually shoot
- A small screwdriver or coin — for capped turret adjustments
- A cleaning rod — for bore sighting without a collimator (see below)
- Hearing and eye protection — non-negotiable
If you haven’t yet chosen your scope, our Best Hunting Optics & Rifle Scopes for 2026 guide covers the top options at every price point. And if you’re still deciding which scope is right for your rifle, our Complete Buyer’s Guide to Rifle Scopes for Deer Hunting breaks down magnification, glass quality, and reticle types.
Step 1 — Make Sure Your Scope Is Properly Mounted
A scope that isn’t mounted correctly will never hold zero, no matter how well you shoot. Before you put a single round through the rifle, confirm:
- Rings and bases are torqued to spec — most manufacturers specify 15–25 in-lbs for ring screws; use a torque driver if you have one. Overtightening crushes the scope tube; undertightening lets it shift under recoil.
- The scope is level — a canted reticle introduces parallax error that compounds at longer distances. Use a level tool across the turret cap and the receiver to confirm.
- Eye relief is set correctly — with the rifle in your natural shooting position, slide the scope forward or back until you see the full field of view with no dark shadow ring. Lock the rings there. For most hunting scopes, this is 3–3.5 inches from your eye.
- Reticle orientation is vertical — look through the scope and verify the vertical crosshair is plumb relative to a known vertical line (a doorframe, a plumb bob).
Take your time here. A solid mount is the foundation everything else builds on.
Step 2 — Bore Sight to Get on Paper
Bore sighting gets your scope into rough alignment before you fire a shot. It won’t give you a precise zero, but it will get you on paper at 25–50 yards — which is exactly what you need to start adjusting efficiently.
Option A: Laser Bore Sighter (Recommended)
Insert the laser bore sighter into the muzzle or chamber (depending on the model), then adjust your scope reticle until it aligns with the laser dot at 25 yards. This is the fastest and most accurate bore-sighting method.
Option B: Manual Bore Sighting
For bolt-action rifles only:
- Remove the bolt and set the rifle on a stable rest.
- Look through the bore and center a target at 25 yards in the bore’s field of view.
- Without moving the rifle, adjust your scope’s elevation and windage until the reticle is centered on the same point you see through the bore.
This method is free and effective — it just requires a very stable rest and careful technique.
Option C: Collimator
A collimator mounts to the muzzle and projects a grid that you align with your reticle. Works on any action type and is a solid choice if you have one.
After bore sighting, you should be on paper at 25 yards. Move to the range.
Step 3 — Fire a Three-Shot Group at 25 Yards
Start close. At 25 yards, a rifle that’s even roughly bore-sighted should hit the target. Here’s the protocol:
- Set up a fresh target with a clear aiming point — a 1” dot or bullseye works well.
- Shoot from a stable bench rest or shooting bags. Remove as much human error as possible.
- Fire a deliberate three-shot group, pausing 30–60 seconds between shots to let the barrel cool slightly.
- Examine the group. Note where it landed relative to your point of aim.
What you’re looking for: The group doesn’t need to be on the bullseye — it just needs to be on paper. Even if it’s 4–6 inches high and 3 inches left, that’s fine. You now have a reference point.
Step 4 — Adjust Your Scope Turrets
This is where most beginners get confused. Here’s how scope adjustments work:
Understanding MOA and MRAD
Most hunting scopes adjust in 1/4 MOA clicks. One MOA (minute of angle) equals approximately 1 inch at 100 yards, or 0.25 inches at 25 yards.
- At 25 yards: 1 click moves point of impact ~0.06 inches
- At 100 yards: 1 click moves point of impact ~0.25 inches
Some scopes adjust in MRAD (milliradians). One MRAD = approximately 3.6 inches at 100 yards, typically with 0.1 MRAD clicks (0.36 inches per click at 100 yards). Check your scope’s manual for its click value.
Making the Adjustment
- Elevation turret (top) — turn UP to move point of impact up; DOWN to move it down.
- Windage turret (side) — turn the direction you want the point of impact to move (marked on the turret cap).
Calculate your clicks: If your group hit 2 inches low and 1.5 inches right at 25 yards:
- Elevation: 2 inches ÷ 0.06 inches/click = approximately 33 clicks UP
- Windage: 1.5 inches ÷ 0.06 inches/click = approximately 25 clicks LEFT
After adjusting, fire another three-shot group to confirm. Repeat until your group is centered at 25 yards.
Step 5 — Move to 100 Yards and Refine Your Zero
Once you’re hitting center at 25 yards, move your target to 100 yards. This is your final zeroing distance for most deer hunting rifles.
- Fire a three-shot group from a stable rest.
- Measure the distance from your aiming point to the center of your group.
- Calculate and apply your turret adjustments (at 100 yards, 1/4 MOA clicks = 0.25 inches per click).
- Fire another group, confirm the adjustment tracked correctly, then fine-tune.
Pro tip: Let the barrel cool between groups. A hot barrel shoots differently than a cold one — and in hunting, your first shot is almost always a cold-bore shot. Some hunters dedicate one group specifically to confirming cold-bore point of impact.
Common Zero Distances and Their Trade-offs
- 100-yard zero — The standard for most deer hunters. Simple math, works for shots out to 200 yards with most common cartridges.
- 200-yard zero — Preferred by western hunters and long-range shooters. Hits about 2–3 inches high at 100, dead-on at 200, and predictably low beyond.
- 25/100 rule — Zero at 25 yards, then confirm at 100. Often lands you within 1–2 inches at 100 without additional adjustment depending on your cartridge’s ballistics.
Step 6 — Confirm with a Five-Shot Group
Once your three-shot groups are printing where you want them, fire one final five-shot group to confirm your zero is stable and repeatable. Five shots eliminate lucky three-shot groups and expose any consistency issues — whether from the load, the barrel, or your technique.
What “good enough” looks like:
- Hunting rifle: 1–1.5 MOA group (1–1.5 inches at 100 yards) is excellent
- Precision/long-range rifle: Sub-MOA or better
If your group is larger than expected, check: barrel cooling (hot barrels walk), trigger technique (are you breaking it consistently?), scope mount stability (any movement under recoil?), and ammunition lot consistency.
Step 7 — Record Your Zero and Verify After Transport
Once you’ve confirmed your zero, record the following:
- Ammunition used (brand, bullet weight, and load)
- Distance zeroed
- Date
- Any notes on group size or cold-bore shift
Bump your rifle in a truck, ship it, or change mounts and you may need to re-verify. Before any hunting season, it’s worth sending two shots downrange at 100 yards to confirm zero hasn’t shifted. It takes five minutes and can save a season.
Scope and Gear Recommendations
If you’re in the market for a new optic before you head to the range, our Best Hunting Optics & Rifle Scopes for 2026 guide covers the best options at every price point — from budget-friendly all-day performers to premium glass built for low-light hunting. We also carry a full selection of shooting accessories including bore sighters, scope rings, shooting bags, and targets to make your next range session as efficient as possible.
Sighting in a rifle scope correctly the first time isn’t complicated — but it does require patience, a stable rest, and working through the process methodically. Follow these steps and you’ll leave the range with a rifle you can trust in the field.